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[Sewing Machine Links]
[Singer Attachments and Fashion Aids I have Used]
[Singer Model 66 differences chart]
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[Sewing Machines I Currently Own]

 

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[Singer Buttonholer 489500 Main]
[Singer Stocking Darner Instructions]
[Singer EZ Darner Instructions]
[Stoppax Darning Attachment]
[Singer Pinking Attachment]
[Singer ZigZag Attachment Instructions Covers]

Singer Attachments and Fashion Aids I have Used

 

On this page I will list attachments as I use them on different machines, and an example of the result.  Although I have used many of them already, I am just now starting to scan in the results, so this page is a work in progress.

 

Attachment Part Number Machine used with Notes: Result
Low Shank Buttonholer -use the part number at right

Box

No Templates

Scans of Instructions for Buttonholer 121795:

Front Cover

View 1

View 2

View 3

View 4

View 5

View 6

View 7 

Back Cover

 

121795 complete Singer 185K3 Just for fun, I thought I would use the oldest buttonholer attachment on a slightly "newer" (1958) machine, my 185K3.  Although in the above top left scan of the buttonholer, it looks like there is tarnish on the feed cover plate, there isn't any, it is light reflecting from my scanner.  This set is in like-new condition, including the instructions, except for yellowing on the outer box. In the samples above right, I am not sure if these are supposed to be slightly slanted or if I need to further adjust the buttonholer.  Either way, this did work very easily. A finer thread would make a nicer finished look.

Here are some comments from Joseph in Europe regarding this attachment- Thanks! Joseph!

" I really enjoyed reading about your experience with the buttonhole attachments too.  I thought I might add something that perhaps you did not know about them. I live in Europe and sometimes the sewing machine attachments made by Singer tend to be slightly different.  Case in point, the Singer 121795 buttonhole attachment sold everywhere in the U.S..  While a very good attachment, the one sold in Europe that has the model number 86662 is virtually identical with one important exception...it has a stripper foot that presses on the fabric near the needle between each stitch just like the later ones in the U.S. had after a complete design change.  This stripper foot is important because it avoids having skipped stitches since the rectangular opening is so large on the buttonholer and the fabric can rise and the reason why they were later standard on all buttonholers.  So, if you can find an 86662 (England and Australia only as far as I know) you will have the best of both worlds...an attachment that not only looks vintage but also completely up to standards at the same time never skips a stitch and looks and works fantastic on treadle machines!"

 

This buttonholer on the 185k3 machine

 

"Famous" Buttonhole Attachment

  • Light Manufacturing Company

  • Sold By Singer Sewing Machine Company

 

 

 

Box top:

 

 

Box side:

 

 

 

369(3)5 Singer model 115 I bought this attachment specifically to fit my Singer model 115 treadle machine.  This buttonholer clamps on from the back like others, but fits around the needlebar and not into the foot attaching area.  This caused a problem for my thread cutter which I temporarily removed.  I am using this to make a button-on label for a quilt I made for my mother.  There is a stamped note inside the instruction booklet that warns against tightening the buttonholer too tightly to the needlebar as the frame may break.

Above are the first test buttonholes - I needed to make a couple of adjustments.

Slant Shank Buttonholer -use the part number at right

The low shank version is part #160506 

Treasure Box

This comes with 5 metal templates, one always to be in the machine.  Additional templates are available second-hand.

 

160743 Singer 500A Using this buttonholer was much easier than I expected, (it was the first of the older types I used)  and I have to say that the buttonholes are nicer than what I can do on my Singer 6012 with the automatic buttonhole function.  With the 6012, the presser foot is in the way of seeing what I am doing.   The loose threads on the edges of these at right are from my trimming, and not from the attachment.  If I had gone around twice, the buttonholes would be fuller.
Low Shank Buttonholer -use the part number at right 

The Slant Shank part number is ,"I believe", 489510  (pink case)

Plate and included templates

Extra templates, including one for eyelets

Case

Manual

Please click here for the pages of this manual

 

489500 (green case) and 489510 (pink case)

My manual lists both numbers, but my buttonholer is marked "straight" for straight shank on the clamp arm.  The slant shank part number is 489510 and comes in the pink case.

Singer 201k1 This buttonholer set is in like-new condition.  I immediately wanted to try the extra eyelet template that came with it, even though I also have one for my slant shank 500A machine in a different buttonholer set.  At right are some samples from this buttonholer.

Slant Shank Professional Buttonholer- "Automatic Buttonholer"- box marked for the Touch and Sew machine, but this particular  set/ part# fits slant shank machines

 

This comes with 20 plastic templates, one always to be in the machine.

161829 Singer 500A From left to right in the scan at right, a straight buttonhole, an eyelet or keyhole buttonhole, two eyelets (for lacing or ribbon), a purled buttonhole and a two-needle buttonhole.  These were all completed on 100% cotton (2 layers), with Star 100% Egyptian cotton 50 wt. thread in a size 12 needle.  A finer thread and needle might have been better suited to the two-needle buttonhole, depending on the fabric.  I also would adjust the spacing for the opening if I were sewing these for a garment.  I would also make them neater - but I was just testing the attachment when I made this sample.

Stoppax Darning Attachment

 

none Singer 99k hand crank

Singer 201k1

The Stoppax Darning Attachment is a spring device that attaches to the the presser foot, between the foot and the screw. When the wire arm is swung over the needle clamp, it is in place for darning or free motion quilting.  Each time the needle raises, it lifts the arm which lifts the presser bar, enabling the moving of the fabric.  In the scan at the left, it is shown attached to my Singer 99k hand crank, and that is the machine I used to make the sample at right.  It is supposed to fit any machine, but I had a little trouble with it on my Singer 201k1 hand crank, and I'm not sure why.  When my treadle is refinished and set up again, I will be testing out on the Singer 115.  My darning at right could be neater, but I don't darn that often. -Update : I did use it on my 201k1 hand crank - the problem was that I had to turn the arm that fits over the needle bar one turn in order to better fit the 201k1.  I also used a small embroidery hoop, which was easier to move around with one hand while the other hand cranked.

Darning with Stoppax on Singer 99k

Stoppax on 201k1 and embroidery hoop - face plate side is above, below is from inner side showing the attachment.

The Ruffler

(slant shank- use the part # at right)

(low shank - use part # 120598 (slightly different in design))

161561 Singer 500A Having always done my gathering and ruffling by hand in the past, when I first really looked at this, it was a little daunting, only because I had no idea how it worked.  I have to say though, it was simple to attach, simple to line up the material, and simple to use.  It took about 30 seconds to make the ruffles in the scan at the right top.  It makes me wonder if I will ever be hand-adjusting bobbin threads for gathers again.

Ruffles made on the 500A

 

Above is the low shank ruffler on the 201k1

Singer  zigzagger (non-cam type)

To see the instructions for this zigzag attachment, click here, and then use the links at the bottom of the page.

Box

Above is front view and below is rear view of this zigzagger on my Singer 201k1

160620 201k1 This zig zagger is adjustable, but it is not the adjustable model that takes the different stitch cams.  I found it very easy to use, and it makes wonderful zig zag stitches in several widths.  It also will zig zag over cording, as shown in the scan at right.  This is a low shank version, and I do not think there was a slant shank version of this model, but I am not sure.  I believe this model/type was manufactured prior to the slant shank machines being created.  This zig zagger can be left on a machine, and a little arm on the right of it can be disengaged for straight stitching.

 

Zig zag stitches 

Attaching of cording - of course, if I use matching thread, the cording is attached very discreetly.

Singer Automatic ZigZagger

Use part number at right for low shank

slant shank for 301 machine is 160986

(takes stitch pattern cams)

Book

Box

160985

(classes 15,201,221 and 1200)

201k1 This zigzagger is just as easy to use as the non-automatic type and makes very nice stitches.  The set I bought actually is missing the cams 161001 (blind stitch) and 161002 (domino stitch) and instead has the cams 161006 (walls of troy stitch) and 161007 (icicle stitch).  Although I will look for the original stitch pattern cams that would be with this set, I was glad to use the other two, which would normally have been an additional purchase.

 

This box should have cams #

161000  zig zag stitch

161001 blind stitch

161002  domino stitch

161003  arrowhead stitch

Singer Stocking Darner

 part number 35776

Please click here to see the instructions

Book

Box top

Box side

35776 221-1 Featherweight This worked out more nicely than I expected.  The directions state to cover the feed dogs, which I did with a random spare cover plate.  The sock (donated by my son) had a dime size hole, and was fitted into the sock darner.  I used my Featherweight machine because it is already scuffed up some.  Care should be taken in fitting the sock and darner under the presser bar if  the machine you are using is in mint condition, as the metal rings on the sock darner might scratch the machine.  The presser foot and presser foot screw are removed, and without using a darning foot, and choosing a very small stitch length, I was able to darn this hole very quickly.  I made sure the bobbin side of the repair was on the outside of the sock, so the smoother side would be next to the wearer.

The throat plate attached, the presser foot and presser foot screw removed.  Presser bar must still be lowered when darning.

The sock and darner placed under the needle area, after the darning is complete.

The finished and darned sock - bobbin (outer) side

Singer Pinking Attachment

click here to see it on the 201k, and click here to see the instructions

 

121021 201k    

 

Non-Singer attachments

Stoppax Darning Attachment

E-Z Darning Attachment Instructions

 

 

 

 

 

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